2021 Richard Leroy Les Noels de Montbenault Chenin, Loire, Vin de France

What it is: Les Noëls de Montbenault — Chenin Blanc from Richard Leroy's biodynamic vineyards in Anjou. Leroy is the cult benchmark for dry Chenin; tiny production, immense demand.

Who it's for: Chenin devotees and natural-wine collectors; Leroy's wines are allocation-only rarities.

Taste: Quince, chamomile, honey, and chalk with electric acidity, texture, and profound length.

Pair with: Lobster, roast chicken, aged Comté — or the cellar for decades.

Details: 2021 vintage · 750ml · Dry Chenin Blanc · Anjou, Loire, France · Biodynamic.

Extremely limited — allocated bottling.